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「ブランドを10年やってきて、自分たちで使ってきたうえでの信頼感や安心感は数値よりも大事な指標です。あれが着やすい・これは使い勝手がいいなど、そういった視点で生地を選んでいます。また機能だけではなく、仕立て映えする生地であるかどうかも重視しています」
デザイナー・森美穂子と池内啓太がこう語るように、街で着用する衣服の高揚感をキープしながら、アウトドアアクティビティでも重宝するアイテムを作り続けるand wanderにとって、生地選びは重要だ。

梅雨から夏にかけて、あらゆるシーンで活躍するアイテムに用いられているのが、機能性に加え、その風合いも高い評価を得ている〈PERTEX〉。
「素材開発はもちろん、環境問題への取り組み、ブランディングなど、常に最前線でワールドワイドに提案している現場を、ISPOなどで見てとても刺激を受けています」

〈PERTEX〉への信頼を、森はこのようにつづけた。今回は、and wanderのPERTEX wind jacketなどに使われている、防風性・撥水性・耐久性に優れた「PERTEX QUANTUM AIR」。 3L light rain jacketなどに使われている、防水・透湿性に優れた「PERTEX SHIELD」について焦点を当てた。

“We have been running this brand for 10 years now, and the reliance on quality or the comfort that we’ve actually experienced through the use of our products are some of the important benchmarks that we care more than numbers. The fabric for and wander products is selected based on our experience and what we believe is comfortable and convenient. In addition to functionality, the potential of the fabric to become a beautiful, sophisticated item, is also an important factor for us,” the designers of and wander, Mihoko Mori and Keita Ikeuchi, explained.
As a brand that delivers clothes that has a good balance of stylishness, which brings exhilaration for city use , and convenient functionality for outdoor use, fabric selection becomes an extremely important process.

〈PERTEX〉 is a widely used fabric for versatile clothing that are worn during the rainy season (May to July) as well as in summer and is highly acclaimed for its functionality and texture.
“Not to mention their material development capability, but at ISPO, we were also inspired by PERTEX’s approach to environmental issues, their branding strategy, and how they continue to offer quality products globally at the forefront of the industry,” continued Mori, expressing their trust towards 〈PERTEX〉.

In this article, we will focus on two PERTEX fabrics: a highly wind-resistant, water-repellent, durable fabric called “PERTEX QUANTUM AIR”, which is used for and wander’s PERTEX wind jacket, and a waterproof-breathable fabric called “PERTEX SHIELD”.

PERTEX QUANTUM AIRとは？

「ウインドブレーカーは2011年のブランド発足時から作っていますが、素材にPERTEX QUANTUM AIRを採用したのは2013年からです。軽量でコンパクトになり、撥水性もあるので自転車やキャンプ、タウンユースなど多少の雨なら役立ち便利です」（and wander デザイナー・池内啓太）

「街から山まで一番出番の多いアイテムのひとつです。夏場はエアコン対策として常に持ち運ぶこともできる。また、飛行機の中も含め海外旅行などでも一枚あると便利です。シャツ感覚で着続けられるのも魅力です」（and wander デザイナー・森美穂子）

PERTEX QUANTUMは極細糸を使いながら、防風性がありダウン抜けもしない高密度で超軽量な生地として誕生した。その高い機能性を自在にコントロールすべく誕生したのが、PERTEX QUANTUM AIRである。生地に樹脂コーティングを施すことで、密度に変化をつけて通気性を出したり閉じたりと、求める機能に対し細かく調整することができるのだ。
また、糸を撚って（ねじって）生地にするため、光沢のあるツルツルしたものではなくテクスチャーとしての表情が生まれている。ドライタッチになったことで、肌にペタッと張りつくこともなくなった。

About PERTEX QUANTUM AIR

“We have been making windbreakers since the launch of this brand in 2011, and 2013 was the year when we first adopted PERTEX QUANTUM AIR. Since then, we have been successful in producing lightweight, compact windbreakers. It also has a water repellent finish, which allows the users to wear them even in light rain while biking, camping, or just simply in town. It’s practical and useful.” (Keita Ikeuchi, and wander designer)

“Our windbreaker is one of the items that can be used in various environments and scenes, from the city to the mountains. In summer, you can always have it with you to keep you comfortable in an over-air-conditioned rooms. It is also useful for overseas travels and nice to have during your flight. You can use it all year round like a shirt and that’s what makes it so attractive.” (Mihoko Mori, and wander designer)

Made with ultra-fine thread, PERTEX QUANTUM is engineered to be a down-proof, high-density, ultra-lightweight fabric with wind-resistance. PERTEX QUANTUM AIR, on the other hand, offers more flexibility and control in addition to these advanced capabilities. The resin coating allows designers to specifically control the air permeability by optimizing the fabric density according to what they want to make. When the thin threads are woven into a fabric, they are twisted so that it creates a unique texture and expression instead of a plain smooth, glossy surface. This fabric provides a dry touch feel, which will prevent the fabric from sticking to the skin.

PERTEX QUANTUM AIRのお手入れ方法

一般的な生地よりも強いため家庭用洗濯機で普通に洗え、低温設定での乾燥機も使用OK。洗剤の指定もない。撥水性を復活させたいときは、当て布をして低温のアイロンをかけるのがおすすめ。表面の細かい毛が立ち、撥水性が復活する。唯一の注意点は、ドライクリーニングNG。撥水性能の低下を招くためだ。

How To Care for PERTEX QUANTUM AIR

PERTEX QUANTUM AIR can be washed in a washing machine and can also be tumble dried at low heat setting since it is more durable than other commonly used fabrics. No special laundry detergents are needed. If you want to restore its water repellency, it is recommended that you iron the garment with low heat and with a pressing cloth. This will make the surface re-fluff and restore the repellent feature. The one thing you should avoid doing is dry cleaning, because it deteriorates the water-resistant performance.

PERTEX SHIELDとは？

「山で使えるレインウェアは、しっかりとした生地と薄手のタイプの2種類提案しています。PERTEX SHIELEDを使ったものは薄手のタイプで、かなり軽量。今は通気性のあるPERTEX SHIELED AIRという最新素材もありますが、通気はベンチレーションで調整したいという思いもあって、あえてPERTEX SHIELEDを使っています。私は夏山からバックカントリースキーまでするのですが、バックカントリー以外はほぼ常に持っていくアイテムです」（and wander デザイナー・森美穂子）

「重さは200g前半と、ウィンドブレーカーに限りなく近い。レインウェアでありながら、ウィンド並のアクティブさがあり、携帯性に優れているのが魅力です」（and wander デザイナー・池内啓太）

PERTEX SHIELDは、透湿防水のカテゴリーに位置し、ポリウレタンフィルムをラミネートしたタイプと、ポリウレタン樹脂をコーティングしたタイプの2種類がある。前者のフィルムラミネートタイプは耐水圧 20,000mmPa 透湿度 20,000g/㎡-24H (B-1法)と、十分な防水透湿性能を誇る。
and wanderが「3L light rain jacket」で使っているのは前者で、表地は20デニールと極薄、軽量で柔らかな着心地を楽しめるのが特徴となっている。
防水透湿生地は各社から発売されているが、PERTEX SHIELDの魅力は表地や裏地のバリエーションが豊富な点。この組み合わせのバランスにより、各ブランドが求める最適な機能を引き出すことができる。

About PERTEX SHIELD

“At and wander, we offer two different types of rain jackets for mountain use; one is thin, and the other is thick. The thin jacket uses PERTEX SHIELD fabric and is very light in weight. The latest type of fabric in this series is called PERTEX SHIELD AIR, but we decided to stick to the original PERTEX SHIELD because we wanted the users to control the airflow with the ventilation zippers. From hiking to backcountry activities, I enjoy outdoor recreation in the mountains throughout the year, and I take this rain jacket with me almost always. I think the only exception would be when I go into the backcountry.” (Mihoko Mori, and wander designer)

“This jacket weighs less than 250g (8.8oz) and it’s almost like a windbreaker. It allows the user to move around easily while giving protection from the rain. Portability is also another factor that makes and wander’s rain jacket worth a buy.” (Keita Ikeuchi, and wander designer)

PERTEX SHIELD fabric is categorized as a breathable-waterproof material, and it comes in two different finishes. One has a polyurethane film laminated on the surface and the other is coated with a polyurethane resin. The former type has a water pressure resistance of 20,000mmPa and moisture permeability of 20,000g/㎡-24H (B-1 method), boasting a high level of breathable-waterproof performance.
This film laminated fabric is used for and wander’s “3L light rain jacket”. The extra thin 20-denier outer shell makes the jacket lightweight and gives a soft texture, which allows the users to enjoy the comfort of wearing this item.
Breathable-waterproof fabrics are available from any other textile manufacturer, but PERTEX SHIELD series is especially great because it offers a wide selection of fabrics for outer and inner layers. By mixing and matching these fabrics, each apparel brand can find the perfect balance to ensure optimal functionality for their products.

PERTEX SHIELDのお手入れ方法

一般的な生地よりも強いため家庭用洗濯機で普通に洗え、低温設定での乾燥機も使用OK。洗剤の指定もないがすすぎは念入りに。生地とポリウレタンフィルムの間に洗剤が残っていると、水を引き込みやすくなってしまうからだ。
撥水性を復活させたいときは、低温設定で乾燥機に入れるか、当て布をして低温のアイロンをかけるのがおすすめ。表面の細かい毛が立ち、撥水性が復活する。

How To Care for PERTEX SHIELD

PERTEX SHIELD can be washed in a washing machine and can also be tumble dried at low heat setting since it is more durable than other commonly used fabrics. No special laundry detergents are needed, but make sure to rinse thoroughly. It is important that you completely rinse off the detergent solution between the fabric and the polyurethane film, otherwise, water will easily penetrate through the fabric.
If you want to restore its water repellency, it is recommended that you iron the garment with low heat and with a pressing cloth. This will make the surface re-fluff and restore the repellent feature.

軽く、しなやかで、すぐ乾く。
PERTEXのヒストリー

PERTEXの始まりは1979年のイギリス。登山家でありデザイナーのHamish Hamiltonは、重く乾きにくいコットンの代用品として、軽量で速乾性の高い合成繊維のアイデアを思いつく。基本原理は、現在広く使われている吸汗速乾生地と同じだ。
細い糸を使うことで毛細管現象（細い管や隙間に向かって水分が引き上げられる現象）を引き起こさせ、生地全体へと水分が広げて素早く乾燥させるというもの。細い合成繊維を使うことで軽量性も確保される。
彼はこのアイデアをランカシャー州にあるPerseverance Mills社に持ち込む。そこはパラシュート生地を得意とするメーカーであり、ナイロン生地を高密度に織るノウハウを持っていた。両者が組むことで理想を実現させたPERTEXだが、意外な副産物を生むこととなる。生地が高密度なため、ダウンが抜け出てこないという特性を有していたのだ。そのため、初期のPERTEXはシェラフ（寝袋）やダウンジャケットの生地として重宝されていく。
その後、技術革新とともに種類は増え、現在までに機能の違う7つのシリーズが存在するに至った。

Lightweight, Soft, and Quick Drying.
The History of PERTEX

PERTEX started its business in the UK in 1979. Hamish Hamilton, a mountaineer as well as a designer, came up with a new idea to develop a lightweight, quick-drying synthetic fabric as an alternative for cotton, which is often heavy and time-consuming to dry. His idea had the same basic concept as the sweat absorbent, quick drying material that is widely used today.
The fine thread of the fabric causes capillary action, or wicking, a phenomenon in which liquid spontaneously flows against the gravity into a narrow tube or a space. This will disperse water throughout the entire fabric and enable quick drying. Moreover, thin synthetic fabric can also ensure lightness.
He took this idea to Perseverance Mills, a Lancashire textile manufacturer. The company was specialized in producing parachute canopy fabric and therefore had the know-how to weave high-density nylon fabrics. The collaboration of Hamish Hamilton and Perseverance Mills led to the birth of a dream fabric, PERTEX, but it also led to a development of an unexpected byproduct. In fact, the highly dense fabric that they had created was also down-proof. Consequently, PERTEX in its early years was frequently used for sleeping bags and down jackets.
As from then, PERTEX continues to evolve and expand as the technology advances, offering 7 types of fabrics with different features up until today.

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